东南亚为榴莲“大打出手”,你争我抢为哪般?

在东南亚,榴莲不仅是街头巷尾备受喜爱的水果,还意外成为区域文化身份的“战场”。近年来围绕“食物归属权”的争论在该地区不断升温,这些食物真的属于某一个国家,还是源自共同的文化土壤?多国对榴莲归属的“口水战”,揭示出怎样更深层的文化现象?专家们的意见又能给我们带来怎样的启示呢?让我们跟随 Jamie 一起走进今天的文章。

讲解人 · Jamie

北外高翻会议口译硕士 金融业 in-house 同传译员

原文


        
** Why Southeast Asia fights over food — but shouldn't. **
A geopolitical battle is being waged over the durian.

In Malaysia, a group representing durian producers wants it to be formally recognized as Malaysia’s national fruit.

But making durian Malaysia’s national fruit also appears to have stoked divisions across the region.

Indonesia’s Coordinating Ministry for Food Affairs said that Indonesia actually has a stronger claim to the fruit because it produces more of it.

The latest durian quibble reflects a broader debate over national foods across Nusantara.

Experts say such fights over ownership and heritage can be myopic.

“They came from a shared cultural world, not from isolated nation states, “ says Khir Johari, author of “The Food of Singapore Malays”.

“People moved freely across islands and coastlines.

They carried ingredients, tools and cooking ideas with them.”

The mobility of Malay people between coasts has meant that those foods transcend modern national borders, according to Fanada Sholihah, a doctoral student in history at the University of Indonesia.

“The colonialism of the 19th century established geopolitical boundaries that disrupted these interconnected culinary heritages as nationalist sentiments intensified, “ Fadly Rahman, a food historian at Padjadjaran University in Indonesia, wrote in his research for the Asia Research Institute.

Now, “Labels like national dish often trigger conflict because people forget how current geopolitical boundaries actually came into being, “ says Khir.

But Khir says a better model exists.

In 2020, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania successfully submitted couscous to UNESCO for intangible cultural heritage status.

“They chose to acknowledge a shared inheritance rather than fight over it, “ he says.

Similarly, the kebaya was inscribed after a joint nomination by several Southeast Asian nations.

“This is proof that cultural practices in Southeast Asia have a history that truly transcends national borders, but are still recognized as a ‘shared heritage, ‘ not the exclusive property of one country, “ says Sholihah.

带着问题听讲解

  • 如何理解 transcend borders 这个表达?
  • 根据文章,为什么东南亚国家会争夺某种食物的归属权?
  • 专家认为这种“争夺”没有必要的原因是什么?

讲解


        
** 东南亚为榴莲“大打出手”,你争我抢为哪般? **
A geopolitical battle is being waged over the durian.
榴莲正在引发一场地缘政治战争。
In Malaysia, a group representing durian producers wants it to be formally recognized as Malaysia's national fruit.
在马来西亚,一群榴莲供应商代表希望榴莲可以被正式承认为马来西亚的国家水果。
But making durian Malaysia's national fruit also appears to have stoked divisions across the region. Indonesia's Coordinating Ministry for Food Affairs said that Indonesia actually has a stronger claim to the fruit because it produces more of it.
但是将榴莲扶上大马国果之位似乎也引发了附近区域的纷争。印度尼西亚食品事务协调部表示,印尼其实更有资格去争取榴莲的所有权,因为它们的产量更高。
The latest durian quibble reflects a broader debate over national foods across Nusantara.
最近的这场榴莲战争反映出了努山塔拉区域中广泛存在的国家食物之争。
Experts say such fights over ownership and heritage can be myopic. "They came from a shared cultural world, not from isolated nation states," says Khir Johari, author of "The Food of Singapore Malays". "People moved freely across islands and coastlines. They carried ingredients, tools and cooking ideas with them."
而专家表示,这种对于所有权和传统的争夺很可能是短视的。“这些食物来自共同的文化世界,而非来自一个个相互独立的单一民族国家。”基尔·佐哈里说到,他是《新加坡马来人的食物》一书的作者,“人们以前自由地在岛屿与海岸线间穿梭,他们随身带着食物原材料、工具和烹饪理念。”
The mobility of Malay people between coasts has meant that those foods transcend modern national borders, according to Fanada Sholihah, a doctoral student in history at the University of Indonesia.
在印尼大学历史学博士生法纳达·肖利哈看来,马来人在海岸间的流动性意味着,这些食物超越了现代国家的边境概念。
"The colonialism of the 19th century established geopolitical boundaries that disrupted these interconnected culinary heritages as nationalist sentiments intensified," Fadly Rahman, a food historian at Padjadjaran University in Indonesia, wrote in his research for the Asia Research Institute.
“19 世纪殖民主义建立了地缘政治边界,随着民族主义情绪加剧,它们分裂了这些相互关联的饮食传统。”印尼帕亚加兰大学食物历史学家法德利·拉赫曼在为亚洲研究所撰写的研究中写道。
Now, "Labels like national dish often trigger conflict because people forget how current geopolitical boundaries actually came into being," says Khir.
现在,“像是国菜这样的标签常会引发矛盾冲突,因为人们忘记了现在的地缘政治边界在一开始是怎么形成的。”基尔说道。
But Khir says a better model exists. In 2020, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania successfully submitted couscous to UNESCO for intangible cultural heritage status. "They chose to acknowledge a shared inheritance rather than fight over it," he says. Similarly, the kebaya was inscribed after a joint nomination by several Southeast Asian nations.
但是基尔认为,存在一种更好的模式。2020 年时,阿尔及利亚、摩洛哥、突尼斯和毛里塔尼亚一起成功将古斯米申报为联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产。“他们选择将它认证为一种共有遗产而非争夺它的所有权。”基尔说道。相似地,可巴雅在几个东南亚国家联合提名之后,也被列为非遗。
"This is proof that cultural practices in Southeast Asia have a history that truly transcends national borders, but are still recognized as a 'shared heritage,' not the exclusive property of one country," says Sholihah.
肖利哈表示:“这证明了文化习俗在东南亚的确拥有着超越国界线的历史渊源,且仍被认定为‘共同遗产’,而非某一国的专属财产。”

重点词汇

geopolitical

/ˌdʒiː.oʊ.pəˈlɪt̬.ɪ.kəl/

adj. 地缘政治的

  • 相关词汇:geology,political
    例句:Hungary and Poland have suffered before because of their unfortunate geopolitical position on the European map.

wage

/weɪdʒ/

v. 发动(战争、斗争等)

  • 词性拓展:wage(n. 工资(通常指按周计))
    搭配短语:to wage a campaign
    搭配短语:to wage a war
    例句:They waged a price war.

stoke

/stoʊk/

v. 激起,煽动;添加燃料

  • 例句:She was stoking the stove with sticks of maple.
    搭配短语:to stoke tensions
    搭配短语:to stoke controversy
    相关词汇:kindle,fuel,ignite

claim

/kleɪm/

n. 所有权;主张

  • 词性拓展:claim(v. 索要,索取)
    搭配短语:a claim to sth.
    例句:They denied her rightful claim to the property.
    例句:The museum asserts that it has a legitimate claim to the artifact.

quibble

/ˈkwɪb.əl/

n. 吹毛求疵的抱怨

  • 英文释义:a complaint or criticism about something that is not very important
    例句:My only quibble is that the colour isn't very nice.

ownership

/ˈoʊ.nɚ.ʃɪp/

n. 所有权

  • 相关词汇:own
    词根词缀:-ship
    例句:The documents prove his ownership of the land.

heritage

/ˈher.ɪ.t̬ɪdʒ/

n. 传统;文化遗产;遗产

  • 搭配短语:World Heritage
    搭配短语:the cultural heritage of Italy
    例句:China is a nation with a rich heritage of folklore.

myopic

/maɪˈɑː.pɪk/

adj. 目光短浅的,缺乏远见的,近视的

  • 近义词:short-sighted
    搭配短语:a myopic view of the world

transcend

/trænˈsend/

v. 超越

  • 词根词缀:trans-(across)
    • 相关词汇transgender
    相关词汇:ascend,descend,condescending
    例句:Good literature transcends time.
    例句:Music can transcend cultural differences.

colonialism

/kəˈloʊ.ni.ə.lɪ.zəm/

n. 殖民主义;殖民统治

  • 相关词汇:colony
    • 词根词缀:colonia(意大利之外的古罗马领土)
    • 例句:It was a British colony.
    相关词汇:colonial
    • 搭配短语:a colonial city

disrupt

/dɪsˈrʌpt/

v. 使分裂或中断;中断

  • 例句:The war disrupted the connections of many people.

culinary

/ˈkʌl.ə.ner.i/

adj. 烹饪的;厨房的

  • 相关词汇:cook
    搭配短语:the culinary arts
    搭配短语culinary herbs

nationalist

/ˈnæʃ.ən.əl.ɪst/

adj. 民族主义的

  • 词性拓展:nationalist(n. 民族主义者)
    文化补充:在英文语境中,“民族主义”这个概念往往带有一定的负面色彩,它强调“一个民族、国家认为自己优于其他的民族、国家”。

sentiment

/ˈsen.t̬ə.mənt/

n. 观点,态度

  • 近义词:attitude,opinion
    搭配短语:public sentiments

intensify

/ɪnˈten.sə.faɪ/

v. 加剧;加强

  • 相关词汇:intense(adj. 激烈的)
    • 例句:an intense day
    例句:The fighting has intensified.

trigger

/ˈtrɪɡ.ɚ/

v. 引发,触发

  • 词性拓展:trigger(n. 扳机)
    • 搭配短语:to pull the trigger
    例句:His remarks triggered a public outcry.

come into being
产生,形成,出现

  • 同义词:to start to exist
    例句:Modern nation-states only came into being in the 19th century.

inscribe

/ɪnˈskraɪb/

v. 列入名单;铭刻

  • 例句:The winner's name is inscribed on the trophy.

exclusive

/ɪkˈskluː.sɪv/

adj. 独有的,专属的;排外的

  • 相关词汇:exclude
    例句:We have exclusive use of the beach.

拓展阅读

可芭雅:从娘惹时尚到东南亚“共同遗产”
影视热带火:可芭雅重回大众视野
2008 年,新加坡电视剧《小娘惹》在马六甲与槟城取景热播,引发娘惹文化关注。其中充满南洋风情的娘惹可芭雅(Nyonya Kebaya)更成为马新旅游的时尚象征。然而,可芭雅绝非某国独有,而是整个东南亚努山达拉地区共同拥有的文化遗产。
东南亚五国联合申遗:共同文化而非国界划分
经过两年多历程,印尼、马来西亚、新加坡、汶莱和泰国联合申遗成功,东南亚妇女传统服饰可芭雅(Kebaya)正式列为世界非物质文化遗产。人们希望以此向世界展示跨国共享的南洋文化,而不是把可芭雅局限于某一个国家或族群。
历史跨洋:从阿拉伯长袍演变至东南亚风格
“Kebaya”源自阿拉伯语“kaba”,意为“衣服”。15-16世纪间,这种服饰经葡萄牙人传至印尼。其最初为长袍,可能与阿拉伯半定制衬衫有关,后来再传播至葡萄牙殖民地,斯里兰卡和马六甲,并随区域贸易到达马来半岛与汶莱等地。随着不同气候与生活方式,逐渐形成富有地域特色的“可芭雅系谱”。
剪裁一致、风格多元:每片布料都讲述故事
可芭雅的共性在于开襟、纽扣式穿法和贴身剪裁;但其魅力来自刺绣与布料。例如娘惹刺绣花卉、印尼加里曼丹的金线刺绣(Kelingkan)等。某些地区以人名或地名区分,如 Sulawesi Kebaya。此次申遗涵盖所有类型,避免小众款式被忽视。
文化认同:植根多族群、跨越国家边界
在马来西亚,可芭雅不仅属于娘惹,更代表马来人、华人、克里斯坦人等多族群。印尼方面,爪哇可芭雅受荷兰影响,成为日常服饰;独立后被首任总统苏卡诺定为国服。
从“复古”到“时尚”:让可芭雅回到生活里
长期研究者陈再政认为,可芭雅不仅是有形的服饰,更是无形的文化身份。他不希望可芭雅只留在博物馆或停留在《小娘惹》的复古潮流中,而希望它真正融入当代生活,汉服可配卫衣,可芭雅也能穿牛仔裤。
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