“全是中国产泡菜”:韩国为何在自家餐桌上“失守”

据数据显示,去年 10 个月间,韩国进口了价值近 1.6 亿美元的泡菜,几乎全部来自中国。泡菜这道被誉为韩国“国民灵魂”的传统食物,正面临一场前所未有的贸易变局:中国产泡菜凭借明显的价格优势与稳定的规模化供应,已悄然占据韩国餐饮渠道的主流,甚至导致韩国连续多年出现“泡菜贸易逆差”。曾经的“泡菜宗主国”,为何在本土市场逐渐失守?这背后,是价格竞争的必然,还是一场深刻的社会与文化变迁?让我们和 John 一起走进今天的文章,寻找答案。

讲解人 · John

洛克菲勒访华随行翻译 高人气美语教练 雅思口语 8.5 分

原文


        
** How South Korea's national dish is being priced out at home **
Kimchi, a fermented vegetable dish served with almost every Korean meal, is a cornerstone of food culture on the Korean peninsula.

But watching over the production line has become increasingly fraught.

South Korea imports more kimchi than it exports, and the gap has widened as cheaper Chinese-made products take hold in the domestic market.

How Koreans consume kimchi is also changing.

Single-person households have more than tripled since 2000, now accounting for more than 36% of all households, and fewer people make kimchi at home.

Instead, it is increasingly consumed ready-made or while eating out, where kimchi is served free of charge with every Korean meal.

Charging for such a staple would be unthinkable.

As a result, demand for commercially produced kimchi has grown, with producers becoming increasingly dependent on restaurants and large buyers.

Market forces mean that price, rather than origin or method, is now the decisive factor.

In the first 10 months of last year, South Korea imported $159m worth of kimchi, almost entirely from China, while exporting $137m.

The pressures have been compounded by the climate crisis, which is disrupting cabbage farming, the single most important input in kimchi production.

Government agencies and producers are developing climate-resistant varieties and improved storage systems, but industry groups question whether such measures can offset the pressures.

South Korea’s agriculture ministry said it aims to “strengthen both domestic and export foundations to build a sustainable growth base for the entire kimchi industry”.

Measures include voluntary labelling schemes that let restaurants signal they use Korean kimchi, agricultural support such as weather forecasting and pest control for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi’s shelf life for export.

带着问题听讲解

  • 如何理解 price out 一词?
  • 根据文章,为什么越来越多韩国人不再在家制作泡菜?
  • 文章认为,为什么中国产泡菜能在韩国市场占据优势?

讲解


        
** “全是中国产泡菜”:韩国为何在自家餐桌上“失守” **
Kimchi, a fermented vegetable dish served with almost every Korean meal, is a cornerstone of food culture on the Korean peninsula.
泡菜是一种发酵蔬菜,几乎是每一顿韩餐的“标配”,也是朝鲜半岛饮食文化的基石。
But watching over the production line has become increasingly fraught. South Korea imports more kimchi than it exports, and the gap has widened as cheaper Chinese-made products take hold in the domestic market.
然而,韩国泡菜生产的现状却日益堪忧。其进口量已超过出口量,随着价格更低的中国泡菜不断涌入本土市场,贸易逆差还在持续扩大。
How Koreans consume kimchi is also changing. Single-person households have more than tripled since 2000, now accounting for more than 36% of all households, and fewer people make kimchi at home.
与此同时,韩国人的泡菜消费习惯也在改变。自 2000 年以来,单人家庭的数量变为原来的三倍,已占全国家庭总数的 36%以上。这意味着,在家自制泡菜的人越来越少了。
Instead, it is increasingly consumed ready-made or while eating out, where kimchi is served free of charge with every Korean meal. Charging for such a staple would be unthinkable.
人们转而更倾向于购买成品泡菜,或是在外就餐时享用。在韩国,餐厅一般会免费提供泡菜,而对这样一种国民食物收费是难以想象的。
As a result, demand for commercially produced kimchi has grown, with producers becoming increasingly dependent on restaurants and large buyers.
这直接导致了商业化生产的泡菜需求大增,生产商也因此愈发依赖餐厅和大型采购方。
Market forces mean that price, rather than origin or method, is now the decisive factor. In the first 10 months of last year, South Korea imported $159m worth of kimchi, almost entirely from China, while exporting $137m.
市场力量意味着价格,而非产地或制作工艺,已成为影响购买的决定性因素。去年前 10 个月中,韩国进口了价值 1.59 亿美元的泡菜,几乎全部来自中国,而同期的出口额仅为 1.37 亿美元。
The pressures have been compounded by the climate crisis, which is disrupting cabbage farming, the single most important input in kimchi production.
气候危机更是雪上加霜,它严重影响了白菜的种植——而白菜正是泡菜生产中最核心的原料。
Government agencies and producers are developing climate-resistant varieties and improved storage systems, but industry groups question whether such measures can offset the pressures.
尽管政府机构和生产商正在积极研发能抵抗气候变化的蔬菜品种并改良储存技术,但行业协会仍质疑这些措施能否真正缓解当前面临的压力。
South Korea's agriculture ministry said it aims to "strengthen both domestic and export foundations to build a sustainable growth base for the entire kimchi industry".
韩国农业部表示,其目标是“夯实国内市场与出口根基,为整个泡菜产业构筑可持续的增长基础”。
Measures include voluntary labelling schemes that let restaurants signal they use Korean kimchi, agricultural support such as weather forecasting and pest control for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi's shelf life for export.
具体措施包括:推行自愿性标签计划,鼓励餐厅标明其使用的是韩国本土泡菜;为白菜种植户提供天气预报、病虫害防治等农业支持;以及开展延长泡菜保质期的研究,以促进出口。

重点词汇

price out
因价格过高而排除在外,负担不起

  • 搭配短语price sb./sth. out of
    • 例句:Many young families are priced out of the housing market.
    • 例句:Cheaper imported goods are pricing domestic products out of the market.

ferment

/fɚˈment/

v. 发酵;酝酿

  • 相关词汇:yogurt;cheese;wine;soy sauce
    搭配短语fermented food
    例句:Anger was fermenting among the crowd.
    词性拓展:ferment(n. 动乱,骚乱)
    • 搭配短语:in ferment

cornerstone

/ˈkɔːr.nɚ.stoʊn/

n. 基石,基础;奠基石

  • 例句:Trust is the cornerstone of any healthy relationship.
    近义词:foundation stone;bedrock(基石);pillar(支柱)
    反义词:a trivial part

peninsula

/pəˈnɪn.sə.lə/

n. 半岛

  • 词根词缀:pen(几乎,接近);insula(岛屿)
    • 派生词:insular(adj. 岛屿的;思想狭隘的)
    • 搭配短语:the coastal and insular areas
    • 近义词:narrow-minded
    • 搭配短语:the insular world of boarding schools
    • 相关词汇:a provincial viewpoint

watch over
保护,照看;监督

  • 口语表达:Could you watch over my luggage for a moment while I go to the restroom?
    近义词:supervise
    搭配短语watch over the fairness of the financial markets
    搭配短语watch over sb.
    • 近义词:protect and keep an eye on sb.
    • 例句:Guardian angels watch over you.

fraught

/frɑːt/

adj. 充满……的;令人忧虑的

  • 搭配短语fraught with
    • 例句:The negotiation was fraught with tension.
    • 近义词:full of
    近义词:tense
    搭配短语:a fraught atmosphere/situation

take hold
变强;确立地位;控制

  • 英文释义:to become effective, established, or popular
    例句:The new policy began to take hold after a few months.
    例句:An idea took hold in my mind.
    近义词:become established;gain a foothold
    搭配短语take hold of sb.

account for
占比;解释

  • 近义词:explain
    例句:Recent pressure at work may account for his behavior.
    搭配短语account for your mistake

staple

/ˈsteɪ.pəl/

n. 主要产品;主食

  • 搭配短语staples like flour and rice
    词性拓展:staple(adj. 主要的;最重要的)
    • 例句:Rice is the staple food of more than half the world's population.
    相关词汇:side dish(配菜)

decisive

/dɪˈsaɪ.sɪv/

adj. 决定性的;果断的

  • 相关词汇:decide(v. 决定)
    例句:They scored the decisive goal in the final minute of the game.
    例句:Her decisive response to the emergency prevented a major accident.

compound

/ˈkɑːm.paʊnd/

v. 使加重,使恶化

  • 词性拓展:compound(n. 化合物,复合物;有围墙的建筑群)
    词性拓展:compound(adj. 复合的)
    例句:His anxiety was compounded by the fear of failure.
    近义词:aggravate;exacerbate

disrupt

/dɪsˈrʌpt/

v. 打断,中断,扰乱

  • 例句:The barking dogs disrupted my sleep.
    相关词汇:disruptive(adj. 扰乱性的,捣乱的)
    • 搭配短语disruptive technology(颠覆性技术)
    • 近义词: groundbreaking technology

resistant

/rɪˈzɪs.tənt/

adj. 抵制的,阻止的,抗拒的

  • 相关词汇:resist(v. 抵抗)
    搭配短语:water-resistant watch
    搭配短语:drug-resistant bacteria

offset

/ˌɑːfˈset/

v. 补偿;抵消;弥补

  • 搭配短语offset carbon emissions
    近义词:cancel out;balance

sustainable

/səˈsteɪ.nə.bəl/

adj. 可持续的,能长期保持的

  • 搭配短语sustainable energy sources like solar and wind
    例句:Burning the midnight oil is not a sustainable lifestyle.

shelf life
(食品)保存期;有效期

  • 近义词:expiration date
    搭配短语:have/extend/prolong/shorten a shelf life
    • 例句:Rice has a long shelf life.
    相关词汇:best-before date
    例句:In the fast-paced tech industry, the shelf life of any new skill is getting shorter.

拓展阅读

泡菜可口,泡制有讲究
泡菜是以生鲜蔬菜为原料,经食盐水浸泡发酵制成的蔬菜制品。发酵适宜的泡菜清脆可口,颜色可人,具有乳酸菌发酵的气味和蔬菜的清香,适合佐餐。另外,泡菜营养丰富,含有大量乳酸菌及其代谢产物,是餐桌上常见的调味小菜。
泡制:制造厌氧环境
时至今日,泡菜制作在继承传统工艺的基础上不断改进创新,形成了家庭自制泡菜和工厂生产加工的标准工艺。家庭自制泡菜要特别注意以下几点:
  1. 制备泡菜的环境要卫生干净、阴凉通透,避免阳光直射和潮湿的环境。
  2. 制作泡菜的容器要用热水洗涤,最好用开水热烫,避免微生物污染,并且密闭性好、不易渗漏。
  3. 除去蔬菜有病害、质地粗老的部分,用自来水洗净蔬菜,然后沥干。
  4. 盛放的容器要密闭,营造有利于乳酸菌发酵的厌氧环境。
  5. 放置的环境温度一般在 15℃~39℃ 环境中,温度低时有利于微生物缓慢发酵,温度高时有利于快速发酵。
  6. 为了加快泡菜的制备及保障产品的质量,可以在传统自制泡菜自然发酵的基础上,添加正规来源的泡菜发酵剂(即直投菌剂)。
选购:正规场所有保障
超市等正规场所售卖的泡菜一般是工业化生产的,即袋装或瓶装的泡菜。消费者在选购时,除了根据自己的喜好,也应注意鉴别泡菜产品的质量。
合格的泡菜产品色泽自然,有光泽;有清香或发酵香气;组织韧嫩、质地清脆;酸味柔和,咸甜适度。破袋(瓶)或胀袋(瓶)、色泽变暗、组织软化、表面发黏、汁液有膜、缺乏香气或香气过浓、过甜或过苦、有异香异味的泡菜多为质量不合格的产品。
贮存:0℃~10℃ 环境最佳
无论是自制泡菜还是超市销售的泡菜(袋或瓶装)泡菜,低温环境(0℃~10℃)贮存最好,即冰箱贮存,市售泡菜(袋或瓶装)可以常温贮存。
自制泡菜贮存需注意两个方面,一是贮存时避免经常日光照射,而且环境温度不宜过高;二是避免泡菜与空气频繁接触,以免受到空气中微生物的污染,导致泡菜变质。一般可将大块泡菜分割成小块,用较小的容器贮存于冰箱中冷藏,分次取食。
食用:防止杂菌污染
泡菜制作不好会污染杂菌,如果发现发酵后的泡菜没有纤维支撑,软烂,或有发霉的味道,则是污染了杂菌,请勿食用。
此外,食用时,采用干净的餐具从泡菜桶或坛子中取出,最好一次吃完,如有剩下的泡菜最好放在冰箱中或低温下贮存,以免被空气中的微生物污染。
以上内容原载于网络,由流利说®阅读团队修改编辑。